if you live on the Atlantic or
Pacific coast or beside the great lakes, there’s a good chance
that once
you’ve gained a bit of experience you’ll want to fish for
salmon or steelhead. Therefore, your first outfit should be
sturdy enough to deal with these strong and heavy fish. On the
other hand, if you live where the fishing is for resident
trout of bass on streams and small rivers, a lighter outfit is
more appropriate.
Fly rods and lines are rated by weight. We’ll deal with this
in more detail later, but for now, all you need to know is
that the higher the weight number, the heavier the outfit. In
most cases, either a number six weight (6wt) or a number seven
(7wt), will be appropriate. In locations where you expect to
encounter big, strong fish or need to make long casts, go for
the 7wt, otherwise the 6wt will be fine.
But wherever you live, it pays to get expert local advice
before you buy anything. The staff of specialty fly fishing
shops, or of larger stores with extensive fly fishing
sections, are usually a great help, but it’s also a good idea
to seek out advice from experienced local fly fishers. If
there’s a club in your area, this is the best place to go. Fly
fishing retailers usually have contact information for these.
If you are fortunate enough to have an experienced fly fishing
friend who is willing to mentor you patiently, all the better.
Rods
First of all, don’t be confused by the term “weight”. It has
nothing to do with what the rod actually weighs. Rather it
refers to what weight of line it is designed to cast most
effectively with. Most rods are rated for a single weight, but
others (usually inexpensive models) are rated for a range of
two or three weights. Length is largely a matter of personal
choice, but a rod between eight and nine feet will suit most
situations. Rods also vary in action, ranging from soft (slow)
through medium to stiff (fast). A medium action model is your
best bet. You’ll find the weight rating of a rod and its
length inscribed on the bottom section close to the butt
beside the manufacturer’s brand. However, as you’ll rarely
find the action inscribed on the rod, you’ll have to rely on
the manufacturer’s literature or the advice of an experienced
fly fisher.
It’s best to start out with an inexpensive rod, as some of the
more expensive models tend to be so finely tuned that they
make it difficult for an inexperienced caster. There are
plenty of excellent, inexpensive, graphite models on the
market which are much more forgiving.
Lines
Unlike the rod, the weight rating of a line actually
refers to its physical weight. Make sure you choose one which
matches the rating of the rod. Most modern fly lines are
tapered, which means that they’re thicker in the middle than
at the ends. The purpose of the taper is to facilitate
casting, and there is a bewildering number of tapers
available. Don’t be put off by this, for almost all of them
are designed for special situations. The best line to start
with is a simple weight forward (WF) taper. This is the
easiest line with which to learn to cast. When I learned to
cast, all I had was a level (untapered), silk line, and I’ll
never forget the exhilaration of the moment when I first tried
a tapered model—suddenly I found I could cast much further and
much more easily.
Lines also come in a variety of densities, which affect their
floatability. As well as floating and sinking models, there
are those with combinations of sinking and floating sections.
Again, don’t be put off by this, as all you need to start with
is a simple floating model.
You’ll find the designation of the line printed on its box.
The taper comes first, flowed by the weight, and then the
density. For instance, DT8F indicates a Double Tapered, eight
weight, Floating line; WF7ST a Weight Forward, seven weight,
Sink Tip; DT6S a Double Taper, six weight, Sinking. The line
you’re look for will be either a WF6F or a WF7F.
Fly lines are expensive in relation to straight monofilament,
but don’t let this influence you to buy a cheap one. Brand
name lines are usually more supple and slippery than the
cheaper models, and these qualities make a considerable
difference in ease of casting.
Leaders and Tippets
The leader and tippet are what connects the fly line to the
fly. They’re usually tapered—from a thick diameter where they
connect with the fly line, down to a thinner diameter where
they connect with the fly. The thin end is known as the
“tippet”.
Some fly fishers make their own leaders by knotting different
thicknesses of monofilament together, but there are plenty of
good manufactured tapers available. These come in a whole
range of lengths and tippet strengths. To start, it’s best to
use the shortest, strongest and stiffest leader you can get
away with, as these are the easiest to cast in a straight
line.
Every time you change your fly, you lose a piece of tippet,
shortening the leader. This means that from time to time,
you’ll have to tie on a new length of tippet material. There
are small spools of tippet material in a whole range of
strengths available for this purpose.
Backing
As fly lines are relatively short, backing is used to provide
sufficient length for handling long runs of strong fish. At
first, you most likely won’t need it for this purpose, but buy
it anyway, as it’s essential for filling up the spool of the
reel. Never attach a fly line directly to the spool,
especially those with narrow centre spindles, as the tight
coils this produces impede the smooth motion of the line
through the rod guides. Backing is made from braided material
such as Dacron. For most purposes, 20lb to 30lb test is
sufficient.
Reels
If your budget require you to economise, this is where you
should do it. Unless you’re starting out in pursuit of big
heavy fish, you don’t need a fancy, expensive disc drag. What
you should look for is a reel with the following features:
• A flanged rim to enable you to use your fingers or palm as a
brake.
• A spool which turns smoothly
• Few or no little screws—these have a nasty habit of falling
out.
• The capacity to hold your fly line and an appropriate amount
of backing, so that the spool is filled almost to the rim.
Once you’ve purchased the reel, backing, line, and tippet,
it’s a good idea to have an experienced member of the shop’s
staff to put it all together for you and load it on the reel.
Make sure the backing and the line fill the spool of the reel.
Most shops provide this service free, and some will also
supply the backing free.
In the next issue, we’ll take a look at fly selection and the
various gadgets you’ll need.
|
